How coffee is brewing a new identity in Yunnan

How coffee is brewing a new identity in Yunnan

Arabica beans, mountain air and innovation are fuelling a scene that is fast cementing Baoshan's reputation as China's emerging 'coffee city'.

The writer, Nor Fariza Mohd Razhi, in Baoshan, a destination in Yunnan province fast emerging as China’s ‘coffee city’. (Bernama pic)
KUALA LUMPUR:
China may be known for its centuries-old tea culture, but tucked away in Yunnan province is a city that is quietly making a name for itself through coffee.

Nestled within the Gaoligong mountain range, Baoshan produces high-quality Arabica beans that surprise even seasoned coffee drinkers. Thanks to its subtropical climate, fertile soil and highland terrain, the region’s coffee has a distinctive flavour profile unlike any other in China.

It is this unique combination that has helped Baoshan emerge as an unexpected destination for coffee lovers, proudly summed up in its slogan: “Looking at Chinese coffee, Yunnan’s specialty coffee is in Baoshan” (sic).

Here, coffee cultivation dates back to the 1950s, although the city’s transformation into a modern coffee hub has accelerated in recent years. In 2022, Baoshan was officially recognised as one of China’s earliest regions to develop premium coffee plantations.

The city is also home to Beaton Coffee, a local brand that has helped raise Baoshan’s profile among international visitors. Many travellers now make a deliberate stop here to experience the taste and aroma of its locally grown beans.

During Bernama’s visit last November, it became clear that Baoshan has embraced coffee not just as a crop but as an identity – as evidenced by initiatives such as the Baoshan Vocational Education Park.

Baoshan Coffee Industry College includes a café with a wide selection of beverages, where students gain hands-on experience including barista skills. (Bernama pic)

Within the complex is the Baoshan Coffee Industry College, which is equipped with modern processing machines, live-streaming studios, and a café where students put theory into practice – from cultivation and processing to branding and sales, even barista skills.

Walking into the processing area, the rich scent of freshly handled coffee greets visitors instantly.

About 700 students aged 16 and 17 are enrolled in coffee-related courses, learning not only technical skills but modern marketing techniques including selling products through live streaming – a booming trend in China.

The college’s hands-on, competition-based teaching approach has already paid off: in 2024, its students clinched second place in the Cross-Strait Coffee Technician Vocational Skills Competition.

According to the college’s instructors, the courses have successfully produced highly skilled and versatile young talents capable of mastering the entire coffee industry chain.

These programmes are also seen as contributing significantly to the transformation of China’s overall coffee industry, supporting the country’s shift from being a large-scale producer to a more competitive and influential player on the global stage.

Coffee products sold at Baoshan Zhongka Food include creative blends infused with honey, caramel, berries and grapes, each offering a distinct flavour profile. (Bernama pic)

Baoshan’s coffee ecosystem is supported by more than 10,000 farmers, with plantations spanning about 300,000 hectares. Each day, over 10,000 packets of coffee are sold through e-commerce platforms.

Local company Baoshan Zhongka Food also plays a role through research and development. In its laboratory, researchers taste and analyse brewed coffee to ensure consistency in flavour and quality.

The process begins with harvesting ripe, red coffee cherries, which are then sorted, cleaned and dried before being graded by size and quality – a careful journey from farm to cup.

Sampling Baoshan’s coffee is an experience in itself: at Baoshan Zhongka Food’s café, drinks are prepared by robotic baristas, ensuring consistency in aroma and taste with every cup.

The menu ranges from classic Arabica to creative blends infused with honey, caramel, berries, grapes and apricots, each offering a distinct flavour profile.

Meanwhile, over at the Coffee Cultural Park, visitors can find even more surprises, including coffee-infused dishes such as boiled eggs cooked with coffee and brown sugar – an unusual pairing that works remarkably well.

Souvenirs here also come with a caffeinated twist. Bracelets made from coffee beans offer a quirky keepsake – a small but significant reminder of Baoshan’s transformation into China’s emerging “coffee city”.

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